Chopicalqui Mountain: Mountaineering Guide with Experts from Andina Travel
Itinerary
Our expedition begins with a pick-up from your hotel in Huaraz. The drive north is a visual spectacle, crossing the Callejón de Huaylas. The stop at the Huascarán National Park checkpoint is essential for official registration.
We will skirt the Chinancocha and Orconcocha lagoons, whose turquoise waters, nestled between 1,000-meter granite walls, will take your breath away. Transportation will take us to the Ancush Curve (Km 36), the starting point of the trek. For 4 hours, we will ascend a steep, rocky trail. Upon reaching Moraine Camp, we will set up our first camp. From here, the sunset over Chacraraju and Yanapaccha marks the beginning of our complete disconnection from civilization.
We wake up to the frigid yet purifying air of the high altitude. After a hearty breakfast, we begin the ascent over the upper moraine, a terrain of unstable boulders that demands balance. Upon reaching the edge of the glacier, we perform the “team ritual”: adjusting harnesses, crampons, and rope-ups.
The ascent to High Camp is a lesson in mountaineering. We cross the first crevasses of the glacier, where the light refracts into deep blues. Our UIAGM-AGMP certified guides lead the way, searching for the safest route among the seracs. Establishing camp at 5,380 meters is a milestone; sleeping on the ice is a privilege few experience. The night here is silent, broken only by the wind and the ancient creaking of the glacier.
The day of glory begins at midnight. By the light of our headlamps, we begin the final push. The cold is intense (down to -20°C), but determination propels us upward. The route follows the southwest ridge, facing snow slopes of up to 55° and technical sections that require the use of snow stakes and ice anchors.
After 7 to 8 hours of extreme physical effort, we will reach the summit of Nevado Chopicalqui. Being on the summit at 7:00 AM, as the sun illuminates the east face of Huascarán, is a mystical experience. After the obligatory photos and a moment of gratitude to the mountain, we will begin the technical descent, rappelling down the steepest sections. We will return to High Camp for a short rest and a meal, continuing the descent to the safety of Moraine Camp to conclude the most intense day of our lives.
After a hearty breakfast, we break camp. Our porters, the unsung heroes of the Andes, organize the gear for the final descent. We’ll hike back towards the Ancush Curve, feeling the oxygen fill our lungs with every meter we descend.
Our private transport awaits us for the return trip to Huaraz. Upon arrival, the feeling of accomplishment is overwhelming. You have conquered one of the most beautiful and technically challenging mountains on the planet, and your name is now part of the history of the Cordillera Blanca.
Include
- Private Transportation: Huaraz – Yuracorral – Huaraz.
- Certified Guides: Official UIAGM – AGMP High Mountain Guide.
- Support Staff: Porter for group equipment and specialized mountain cook.
- Meals: 4 nutritious meals daily (breakfast, lunch, packed lunch, and dinner).
- Campaign Logistics: Kitchen tent, dining tent, and high-altitude tents for overnight stays.
- Group Equipment: Certified ropes, carabiners, ice axes, ice screws, and first-aid kit.
- Technical Support: Information session and equipment check before departure.
Not Included
- Entrance tickets to Huascarán National Park.
- Medical and mountain rescue insurance (Mandatory).
- Personal equipment (Double boots, crampons, ice axes, -20°C sleeping bags).
- Expenses due to early expedition abandonment or rescues.
Recommendations
For a successful ascent of Nevado Chopicalqui, the quality of your equipment is your best ally:
- Documents: Original passport and insurance card.
- Technical Clothing: 3-layer system (waterproof Gore-Tex, high-density down thermal layer, and merino wool base layer).
- Climbing Equipment: Rigid mountaineering boots, automatic crampons, technical ice axe, harness, and helmet.
- Sun Protection: Category 4 sunglasses, SPF 50+ sunscreen, and headlamp with spare batteries.
- Hygiene: Biodegradable toiletries and small towels.
Frequently Asked Questions
This is not a mountain for beginners. You must have prior experience using crampons, ice axes, and glacier travel. We recommend having previously climbed 5,000m peaks such as Nevado Pisco.
During the dry season (May-September), the days are sunny but the nights are extremely cold. At the summit, temperatures can drop below -20°C.
We suggest at least 4 to 5 days of acclimatization in Huaraz, taking progressive hikes (Laguna 69 or Churup) to minimize the risk of altitude sickness.
Our guides prioritize safety. If conditions are dangerous (strong winds or poor visibility), we will assess whether to wait for a weather window or begin a safe descent.
Yes, at Andina Travel we can adapt the menu for vegetarians or those with celiac disease. Just let us know when you make your reservation.
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