Nevado Pisco: The Heart of the Glaciers
Located in the Huandoy massif, Nevado Pisco owes its name to Peru’s national drink, after being first summited in 1951. Today, it is a favorite mountain for international expeditions thanks to its perfect balance of accessibility and visual reward. Climbing Pisco is not just a physical challenge; it is a journey through the geological history of the Earth. During the ascent, you’ll witness the grandeur of the Llanganuco Gorge and the imposing south face of Huandoy. Although technically considered accessible, Pisco demands respect: its shifting moraine and the final ridge to the summit require rope techniques that our guides have mastered.Itinerary
Our expedition begins at 5:00 a.m. with a pick-up from your hotel in Huaraz. We’ll travel north through the Callejón de Huaylas, passing through the martyred city of Yungay, before ascending into the famous Llanganuco Valley. The turquoise lagoons of Chinancocha and Orconcocha will welcome us before we reach Cebollapampa (3,900m).
Here, we’ll meet our team of muleteers and donkeys, who will transport our equipment. We’ll begin a 4- to 5-hour hike along a well-marked trail that winds through Polylepis (queñua) forests. As we gain altitude, the air becomes clearer, and the view of Huascarán Norte becomes dominant. Upon reaching Base Camp (4,680m), near the Refugio Perú, we’ll settle in for a restorative dinner and a final technical briefing before our summit attempt.
The most anticipated day begins at 1:00 a.m. By headlamp, we’ll start the most challenging section: the traverse across the moraine. This terrain of granite rocks demands balance and patience. After about three hours, we’ll reach the edge of the glacier, where we’ll equip ourselves with crampons, harnesses, and ice axes.
The ascent across the glacier is an alpine dream. We’ll overcome moderate slopes and navigate some crevasses with the support of our certified guides. At dawn, golden light will bathe the surrounding peaks. Upon reaching the summit of Nevado Pisco, the reward is complete: an amphitheater of ice with Huandoy, Santa Cruz, and Alpamayo before your eyes. After savoring the glory at the top, we’ll begin the focused descent to Base Camp to rest and process the feat.
After breakfast with incredible views, we’ll begin the final descent to Cebollapampa. This route offers a chance to enjoy the biodiversity of the National Park and capture some final photos of Huascarán’s north face. In Cebollapampa, our private transport will be waiting to take us back to Huaraz. We’ll arrive in the city in the afternoon, our hearts filled with the energy of the mountain and the satisfaction of having conquered one of Peru’s most beautiful peaks.
Include
- Transportation: Private transfer Huaraz – Cebollapampa – Huaraz.
- Professional Guide: Official high-mountain guide (UIAGM/AGMP certified).
- Meals: Dinner on day 1, breakfast on day 3, and packed lunch for the activity days.
- Loading: Donkeys and muleteer for the group equipment.
- Safety Equipment: First-aid kit and oxygen therapy equipment.
- Group Equipment: Certified ropes, carabiners, stakes, and slings.
- Specialized Personal Equipment: Mountaineering boots, harness, helmet, crampons, and ice axes.
Not Included
- Entrance to Huascarán National Park (Expedition Ticket).
- Sleeping bag (-10°C).
- Additional services at Refugio Perú (showers, alcoholic beverages).
- Travel and mountain rescue insurance (Mandatory).
Recommendations
- Backpack: 40 to 50 liters for personal gear.
- Headlamp: With spare batteries (essential for early mornings).
- Technical Clothing: 3-layer system (thermal base layer, fleece, and Gore-Tex waterproof jacket).
- Sunscreen: Sunscreen (SPF 50+), category 4 sunglasses, and lip balm.
- Hydration: 1.5 to 2-liter water bottle (we will provide boiled water).
- Accessories: Trekking poles, wool hat, thermal and waterproof gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
It is rated as Easy to Moderate. It does not require technical vertical climbing, but it does require good physical stamina for the 12-hour summit day and comfort walking on a glacier.
It is not strictly mandatory, but it is highly recommended to have had one or two acclimatization hikes above 4,500m a few days before the expedition.
In the high mountains, the early morning cold keeps the glacier stable and the snow bridges firm. It also allows us to reach the summit before the sun warms the ice too much.
In our standard Andina Travel program, we usually camp at Base Camp for a more authentic experience, although the use of Refugio Perú can be arranged (subject to availability and extra cost).
Nuts, chocolates, nutritious sandwiches, fruit and energy biscuits to maintain your performance at altitude.
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