Nevado Mateo Full Day: Your First 5,000m Summit in the Cordillera Blanca
Nevado Mateo: The First Step Towards the Stars
In the heart of the Cordillera Blanca, there is a place where asphalt meets eternal ice. That place is the Punta Olímpica area, and its most accessible guardian is Nevado Mateo. Often described as a “training peak,” Mateo is much more than that: it is a lesson in humility and beauty in the face of the Andes’ grandeur. Unlike other ascents that require days of approach, Mateo allows us to optimize time. It is the preferred choice for travelers with a tight schedule in Huaraz who are unwilling to leave without experiencing the glacial chill and the triumph of a summit. Under the supervision of our certified guides, you will learn that the mountain is not conquered, but rather enjoyed with every roped-up step.Itinerary
Our adventure begins while the city still sleeps. Andina Travel’s private transport will pick you up from your accommodation to gather the group. Departing at 3:00 a.m. is strategic: we need to take advantage of the cold hours so the glacier is at its best in terms of hardness and safety.
After a journey through the Callejón de Huaylas, we’ll turn off towards the breathtaking Quebrada de Ulta. Granite walls over 1,000 meters high will surround us as we ascend the highest paved road in Peru. We’ll reach the base of Nevado Mateo (4,700m), just before the Punta Olímpica tunnel. Here we’ll stop for a boxed breakfast, breathe in the fresh air, and warm up.
We began our hike. The first section is along the moraine: a terrain of rocks and sediment left behind by glacial retreat. It’s a climb of approximately 1.5 to 2 hours that will test your lungs. As we gained altitude, the view of Nevado Ulta and Contrahierbas became simply breathtaking.
We’ve reached the edge of the ice. Here, the guide will perform the equipment preparation. We’ll help you put on your double boots, adjust your crampons, and put on your harness. Once roped up (maximum 3 people per guide to ensure complete control), we’ll begin our ascent across the glacier. El Mateo has a moderate but exhilarating slope, with a few small crevasses that the guide will expertly navigate.
The highlight of the day! Reaching the summit of Nevado Mateo is an experience that often brings smiles and tears of joy. From this natural balcony, you’ll have the closest and most spectacular view of Huascarán Sur (6,768m) and Chopicalqui (6,354m). We’ll stay a while to take professional photos, hydrate, and enjoy the immensity of the Cordillera Blanca.
We begin the descent along the same route, maintaining the rope technique. The descent is usually faster but requires concentration. Once back at the vehicle, we’ll begin the return trip to Huaraz, arriving around 4:00 p.m., ready to rest and celebrate your first technical summit.
Include
- Pre-Tour Consultation: Technical briefing and equipment testing the day before.
- Private Service: Exclusive transportation Huaraz – Punta Olímpica – Huaraz.
- Professional Guide: Certified high-altitude mountain guide (English/Spanish).
- Group Equipment: Safety ropes, carabiners, stakes, and slings.
- Premium Personal Equipment: Mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, and helmet.
- Lighting: Headlamp (essential for the start of the hike).
- Meals: High-energy box lunch designed for high-altitude conditions.
- Entrance Fees: Includes entrance ticket to Huascarán National Park.
- Photography: Professional photos to capture the best memories (Check availability).
Not Included
- Breakfast on the first day (light is recommended).
- Personal travel insurance (adventure coverage is mandatory).
- Tips for mountain staff.
- Personal expenses not mentioned.
Recommendations
Although it’s a day tour, the mountain demands respect. Be sure to bring:
- Base Layer: Quick-drying thermal clothing (avoid cotton).
- Mid Layer: Fleece or thermal jacket.
- Waterproof Layer: Gore-Tex jacket and pants (essential for wind and snow).
- Sun Protection: Sunglasses with UV protection (category 3 or 4), SPF 50+ sunscreen, and lip balm.
- Accessories: Thick gloves (preferably waterproof), wool hat, and trekking socks (merino wool).
- Energy: Water bottle (2 liters), extra snacks such as chocolate or nuts.
Frequently Asked Questions
It’s rated as Easy difficulty, but it’s still high mountain terrain. The risk is minimized 100% with our certified guides and the right equipment. It’s the ideal mountain to overcome your fear of glaciers.
No, Mateo is perfect for beginners. You just need a reasonable level of fitness and to have had at least two days of acclimatization in Huaraz (visiting lagoons like 69 or Churup).
Safety on the glacier depends on the temperature. Leaving early ensures the snow is firm and stable, and also gives us the best light for photographs.
It usually includes a fortified sandwich, fruit, cereals, cookies, chocolate, and a hydrating drink.
To ensure your safety, at Andina Travel we maintain a maximum ratio of 3 clients per guide. If the group is larger, we will send more guides.
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